TWO DECADES AND A RISHA: FROM CAIRO’S STREETS TO SCHOLARLY FEATS (Part 2)
by Dr. Raja Zulkarnain
Her influence reached global proportions, touching Western legends like Bob Dylan and Robert Plant, who deeply admired her. In Malaysia, her melodies and profound poetry bridged cultures, uniting diverse communities in a shared appreciation for her artistry. As a student in Cairo, I found myself in awe of her, seeing in Umm Kulthum not just an artist but a reflection of my own dreams. Her songs accompanied me on my journey, teaching me that music could indeed be a catalyst for change and a voice for the voiceless. Umm Kulthum’s enduring spirit, which continues to inspire from the Nile to the shores of Malaysia, is a testament to the power of art to transcend boundaries. As I strummed my oud, I felt a connection to her timeless spirit—a bond that spanned decades, from her passing on February 3, 1975, to the present day, where her music still echoes in the hearts of those who listen.
Living in Cairo, I began to weave myself into the fabric of local life, adopting the customs and daily rituals that define the Egyptian experience. Each morning, I greeted my neighbors with a cheerful “Sabah el kheir,” feeling the warmth of their smiles as they replied, “Sabah el noor.” Breakfast became a simple yet profound pleasure, with fresh ‘aish baladi’—the hearty Egyptian bread—paired with creamy white cheese, a staple that nourished both body and soul. The local ‘foul medames’, a dish of seasoned fava beans, occasionally graced my table, adding a burst of flavor to the start of my day. As the sun climbed higher, the streets of Cairo buzzed with energy.
In the interlude between classes I found myself in the midst of it all, haggling in the souq, savouring the sweetness of ‘kunafa’, and losing track of time in the city’s countless coffeehouses. Mint tea, with its refreshing aroma, became more than a beverage—it was a ritual, a pause in the day to reflect and connect with friends old and new. Living like the locals, I learned the subtle art of Egyptian hospitality, where sharing a meal is an invitation into one’s life, and a cup of tea can forge friendships that last a lifetime. This immersion was not just about learning the oud or exploring the city; it was about becoming a part of Cairo’s heartbeat, one day at a time.
The oud, with its deep and resonant sound, has not only been the heart of Middle Eastern music but has also played a significant role in the musical heritage of Malaysia. Known locally as the gambus, the oud’s journey to the Malay Archipelago dates back to as early as the 9th century, brought by Persian and Arab Muslim traders and missionaries. Its presence has since been a cornerstone in traditional Malay music, intertwining with the region’s Islamic and cultural identity. In my own journey, the oud became a bridge between my Malaysian roots and the rich tapestry of Egyptian music. The master who taught me was not just a musician but a custodian of history, each lesson a chapter from the past, each composition a reflection of life’s myriad emotions. He was a composer who wove stories into melodies, capturing the essence of both the old world and the new.
The oud’s contribution to Malaysian traditional music is profound. It has influenced the development of local genres, adding depth and complexity to the soundscape of the region. The instrument’s versatility has allowed it to adapt to various musical styles, from the classical to the contemporary, making it an enduring symbol of cultural exchange and musical innovation. As the only Malaysian in my class, I felt a sense of pride in sharing this piece of my heritage. The oud was more than an instrument; it was a testament to the shared history between the Middle East and Southeast Asia, a reminder of the silk roads that once connected us, and the music that continues to bind us. Through the oud, I learned not just about music, but about the threads of history that run through all of us, connecting distant lands and different peoples with the universal language of art.
My time in Cairo has been a profound teacher, imparting lessons that are woven into the very fabric of my being. Patience and perseverance have become my companions, as the city’s frenetic pace and dense crowds taught me to navigate life’s ebbs and flows with grace. Adaptability has been key; Cairo is a city of contrasts, where ancient traditions meet modern ways, and learning to move with its rhythm has been an invaluable skill. The rich tapestry of Egyptian culture has heightened my sensitivity to the nuances of a world far different from my own, teaching me to approach life with respect and an open mind. The warmth and hospitality of the people here have shown me the true value of community and the strength that comes from shared experiences.
Amidst the hustle, I’ve learned to appreciate the beauty of simplicity and to find contentment in the smallest of pleasures. Music, especially the soulful strains of the oud, has transcended language and cultural barriers, affirming its place as a universal mode of expression. Surrounded by the remnants of a civilization that has endured through millennia, I’ve gained a historical perspective that lends a sense of transient beauty to our existence. Cairo’s resilience, its ability to stand tall against the sands of time, inspires me to face my own challenges with hope and determination. These lessons from the heart of Egypt are now an indelible part of my journey, guiding me as I continue to explore the vast, unfolding path of life. -drrz
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