A Timeless Cairo: A Tale of Pyramids, Music, and Memories

by Dr. Raja Zulkarnain

This year marks the 20th anniversary of my first-ever trip to Cairo. Back then, it felt like stepping into a dream I never thought I’d live: visiting the land of the Pharaohs, a place steeped in mystery and history. Cairo, with its ancient soul and vibrant modern energy, left an impression on me that remains vivid even today. It was a trip that shaped not only my understanding of the world but also my appreciation for culture, history, and music. Cairo is a city where the past and present coexist in a mesmerising dance. Walking through its streets, I felt transported back in time. The hustle and bustle of the city carried an energy unlike anything I had experienced before. Amidst the chaos of honking cars and hurried footsteps, there was a rhythm to life in Cairo that was hard to put into words—something alive, something ancient.

The Pyramid of Giza: A Childhood Dream Fulfilled

One of the most anticipated moments of my trip was visiting the Pyramids of Giza, the last surviving wonder of the ancient world. No photograph or video could have prepared me for their sheer magnitude. Standing before these colossal monuments, I felt a deep sense of awe imagining the hands that had built them thousands of years ago. But my adventure didn’t stop at gazing from a distance. From the back area of the desert behind the pyramids, I secretly arranged a camel ride. With the vast desert stretching endlessly behind me, I made my way closer to the pyramids, the warm sand crunching beneath the camel’s feet. The experience was exhilarating, as though I had been transported into another era. Climbing over the massive stones at the base of the Great Pyramid for pictures was another unforgettable moment. The feel of the ancient limestone beneath my hands was surreal. Before leaving, I made sure to visit the Great Sphinx and capture a photo with the majestic guardian of the pyramids—a moment that cemented this visit as a highlight of my life.

Perfume and Papyrus: Artisans of Egypt

My exploration of Cairo also included visits to a traditional perfume-making factory and a papyrus gallery. At the perfume factory, skilled artisans demonstrated the process of extracting essential oils from flowers and herbs. The room was filled with intoxicating scents, and I was amazed by the variety of fragrances they created, each with a unique story and purpose. At the papyrus gallery, I learned about the ancient art of making papyrus paper. Watching the craftsmen press and weave the plant fibers into sheets was fascinating, and the finished pieces, adorned with intricate hieroglyphs and colorful paintings, were truly works of art. Both places offered a glimpse into Egypt’s rich artisanal heritage, which continues to thrive in the modern world.

A Visit to the Legendary Mena House

No trip to Cairo is complete without a visit to the iconic Mena House, a historic gem located just a stone’s throw away from the Great Pyramids of Giza. Nestled at the edge of the desert, this magnificent structure was originally built in 1869 as a hunting lodge before being transformed into a luxury hotel that has hosted royalty, dignitaries, and famous personalities from all over the world. Stepping into the Mena House felt like stepping into a different era. The beauty of the building lies in its seamless blend of traditional Egyptian design and opulent luxury. The walls and ceilings were adorned with intricate arabesque patterns, gilded details, and handmade carpets, evoking the grandeur of the past. The rooms were filled with antique furnishings, and every corner seemed to tell a story.

 

What made the Mena House truly unforgettable was its proximity to the Pyramids. From the gardens and terraces, the sight of the Great Pyramid towering in the background was nothing short of magical. It felt surreal to sip tea in the lush gardens while gazing at one of the world’s most ancient and awe-inspiring monuments. One of the most enchanting memories from my visit to Mena House was having dinner in its lush garden with my Cleopatra—my wife. The evening was perfect. As we sat beneath the stars, the Great Pyramid stood majestically in the backdrop, illuminated softly by the evening glow. The garden itself was tranquil and beautifully landscaped with blooming flowers and tall palm trees, creating an intimate and romantic atmosphere.

The meal was a feast of Egyptian delights—grilled lamb, tender chicken, falafel, and fresh bread paired with a variety of aromatic dips. Every bite reflected the richness of local flavors, perfectly complementing the magical surroundings. Sitting together, surrounded by the elegance of Mena House and the ancient power of the Pyramids, we shared a moment that felt eternal. The Mena House wasn’t just a stop on the trip; it was an experience that brought together the essence of Cairo—its history, beauty, and charm—and left an indelible mark on our hearts.

 

The Original Egyptian Museum

Visiting the Egyptian Museum was another moment that felt straight out of a dream. For years, I had only seen replicas of this grand institution in movies, but standing before the real thing was a revelation. The museum was a treasure trove of artifacts spanning thousands of years, each piece a window into Egypt’s rich history. One of the most unforgettable moments was entering the Pharaohs’ Room, where the mummies of ancient kings and queens were displayed. Seeing their preserved faces was both haunting and awe-inspiring, a reminder of their greatness and the fleeting nature of life. The golden mask of Tutankhamun, shimmering with an otherworldly brilliance, was another highlight. Surrounded by intricate carvings, jewelry, and everyday items from millennia ago, I was struck by the sophistication of this ancient civilization.

 

Climbing the Cairo Tower

For a breathtaking view of the city, I visited the Cairo Tower, an iconic landmark rising high above the city. As the sun dipped lower in the sky, the observation deck offered a stunning panorama of Cairo. From this vantage point, I could see the Nile winding its way through the city, minarets dotting the skyline, and the pyramids standing proudly in the distance. Watching the sunset from the tower was a moment of pure magic, as the golden hues bathed the city in an otherworldly glow.

 

Dinner on the Nile: A Magical Evening

One evening, I found myself aboard a dinner cruise on the Nile River, the lifeblood of Egypt. The city’s vibrant lights reflected on the rippling water, creating a shimmering canvas that seemed to stretch endlessly. The Nile carries not just water but centuries of stories, from the time of the Pharaohs to the modern world. The atmosphere on the cruise was enchanting. Traditional Arabic music filled the air, and a mesmerizing tanoura dancer spun in colorful circles, captivating everyone on board. The meal was a feast of flavors—grilled lamb, tender chicken, crispy falafel, and other Egyptian delicacies, all perfectly spiced and cooked to perfection. As the boat glided along the river, the view of Cairo’s skyline—its minarets, domes, and modern buildings—felt surreal.

 

Mohammad Ali Mosque: Alabaster and Ambition

Another unforgettable stop was the Mohammad Ali Mosque, perched atop the Citadel of Cairo. Even before stepping inside, its grandeur was awe-inspiring. Its towering domes and minarets seemed to touch the sky, a symbol of Cairo’s enduring spirit. But the story behind its stunning alabaster walls shocked me. I learned that the alabaster stone was not simply quarried but taken from the outer casing of the Great Pyramid of Giza itself. Mohammad Ali had ordered his army to peel away the gleaming stones of the ancient pyramid to construct the mosque, a decision that left its mark on both history and the landscape of Egypt. Walking through its halls, surrounded by the translucent glow of the alabaster, I couldn’t help but feel a mix of awe and sorrow—awed by the beauty of the mosque and the sheer determination behind its creation, yet saddened by the sacrifice of a monument even older than time.

 

The Oldest Café in Cairo: El-Fishawi

At the heart of Khan El-Khalili lies a hidden gem, Café El-Fishawi, the oldest café in Cairo. The café was a fascinating mix of old and new, with its walls adorned with antique mirrors that seemed to hold stories of generations past. Sitting there, sipping hot mint tea, I felt transported through time. As I sat, I nibbled on gibna—fried cheese delicately wrapped in rolls, a snack that paired perfectly with the tea. The café’s atmosphere, with the hum of conversations and the clinking of glasses, was intoxicating. It was a place where artists, thinkers, and ordinary people alike gathered to share ideas, dreams, and laughter, all under the watchful gaze of its historic mirrors.

A Pilgrimage to Umm Kulthum’s House

As a musician, visiting the house of Umm Kulthum was a pilgrimage for me. Known as the “Star of the East,” Umm Kulthum is one of the most iconic and beloved figures in Arabic music. Her powerful voice and emotionally charged songs captured the hearts of millions, uniting the Arab world like no other artist. It was part of my plan to pay tribute to her legacy, and standing outside her former home, which has since been transformed into a boutique hotel, was a surreal experience. The house itself was charming, with subtle nods to her career and life. Outside stood a statue of Umm Kulthum, clutching her signature scarf in one hand as if mid-performance. This scarf was a symbol of her unique stage presence, a constant companion as she poured her heart into every note she sang. For me, this visit wasn’t just about history—it was about connecting with the soul of an artist whose music continues to inspire me.

 

A Journey to Remember

Cairo, with its rich tapestry of history and culture, offered me experiences I never thought possible. From the majestic Nile to the glowing alabaster walls of the Mohammad Ali Mosque, from Umm Kulthum’s house to the ancient mummies in the museum, and from the bustling souq to the tranquil charm of El-Fishawi, every moment of that trip was filled with awe and inspiration. Even after 20 years, the memories of that journey remain as vivid as ever. Cairo didn’t just teach me about the past—it taught me to see the world through new eyes, to embrace the magic and mystery in the everyday. And for that, I will always be grateful.

 

But that first trip was just the beginning. Between 2005 and 2007, I returned to Cairo several more times to study the oud, deepening my connection with the city and its cultural heartbeat. Those visits opened up even more doors to the wonders of Cairo and beyond. I explored places I had only dreamed of before, like the Mediterranean city of Alexandria with its historic library and coastal charm. In Cairo itself, I delved deeper into the spiritual and architectural marvels of Islamic civilization. I visited iconic mosques such as Al-Azhar, a center of learning for over a thousand years; the Mosque of Ibn Khaldun, named after the renowned scholar; and the Mosque of the Four Imams, a testament to Cairo’s rich religious history.

 

My most recent trip in 2016 was a re-visit to reconnect with the city I love. Each return offered a new perspective, new discoveries, and a renewed sense of awe. Cairo is not just a destination; it’s a place that continues to inspire, educate, and captivate me every time I set foot in its bustling streets. It’s a city where the past and present merge seamlessly—a timeless treasure that I will always hold close to my heart. -drrz